naked in town

November 9

        Today was another remarkable day, a visit to town, but that’s not what was remarkable about it.  The main street is a kind of open market and I was taking my time looking at jewelry.  Despite the drab clothing everyone wears, there are some coral and abalone designs here that are pretty inventive.  Also the selection is surprising.  Lots of natural pearls and mother-of-pearl earrings.

        For the first time I see someone (else) who appears not to be from here.  She’s a well-dressed woman in heels (very unusual here) with a man in what looks like a chauffer’s uniform.  She’s also not very well behaved.  She pushes her way past people, then gets next to me and scoops several sets of what looks like shellfish bangles.  The meek old lady behind the counter is trying not to act offended, especially when the woman gives her a 10,000-yen note and leaves without waiting for change.

        I exhale.  The people here are justifiably resentful of outsiders but realize they need their money.  I look around and wonder if the Ama ever comes here.  She can’t be in that shed, or out diving, all the time.  I smile and imagine her coming by here naked.

        I must be psychic.  There is a commotion and I go to see what it is.  An old panel truck is approaching, and the Ama is standing up in back!  Naked!  As the truck lurches to a stop on the rough road her breasts bounce and jiggle.  Then she hops off the truck, oblivious to the stones hitting her bare feet, and helps a man unload.  It is a few dozen sacks of her “catch”.  Despite being unprotected by clothes or gloves or boots, she is the one who does most of the work as the heavy sacks are hefted into a bin.  This woman is strong.  They finish the work -- all wordlessly -- and then the truck backs out and leaves.  Now it’s just the Ama and another man.  She is carrying her mask as if it was a purse, the straps tied over her wrist.  She converses with the man at the bin and for the first time I hear her voice.  It’s low, and a little squawky.  As if she’s not used to talking.  She seems to be arguing with the man.  The dispute seems to be an ongoing one; both are rolling their eyes.  She gesticulates, causing her breasts to sway back and forth.  Her rough toes stretch out as if ready to stomp on the man’s boots.  It appears to be about money.  He finally gives her some paper notes which she stuffs into her “purse”.

        Why is she naked in town?  Diving is one thing, just walking about is another.  Is she naked all the time?  Does she even own any clothes?  She doesn’t even own a purse -- she uses her mask instead.  It’s not the new split type with a notch for the nose.  It’s the oval type, roomy enough for the purpose.

        She walks down the market and I turn away, not wanting to look like I’m gawking.  Nobody else seems to notice her nudity.